Uwajima, Japan / Irish Mike Cunningham

What was it about this person that set her apart from other visitor's for whom I've answered questions about Hokule'a and this voyage, and why had she found me?

As part of the crew of the escort vessel Kamahele, it is rare for me to give canoe tours but on this particular day the crew of both vessels had left for an evening engagement. I was working alone below decks on the Kamahele when I heard someone calling from the dock. I climbed on deck to meet Yuka Inoue and her friend Keiko Imura who had both drive 1-1/2 hours after work to come and see the Hokule'a and asked me if I would take their picture with the canoe in the background

Several inquiries about the canoe during the photo session were the first signs that these individuals were different from the more typical visitor. Questions such as "How long did it take to get to Japan? Did we encounter any storms? How do you like Japan?"-These are the more frequent and common questions asked. Instead, their inquiries spoke to the mission of the Hokule'a, it's intangible power and its presence as a symbol of Hawaiian culture and aloha. Although I knew that I should also be leaving in time to attend the evening crew engagement, I sensed a greater need to share more about the Hokule'a with these individuals who had driven a good distance to see and learn about the canoe.

When I suggested that they actually go on board Hokule'a it was as though I had passed them the Holy Grail and they were overcome with an obvious sense of awe to be on board this legendary vessel.

Yuka went on to say later that she was nearly overcome with "chicken skin" and the feeling that she had stepped onto sacred ground was very powerful when she boarded the canoe. Some of their questions about the Hokule'a were prompted by information they had been reading on the blog everyday since we left Honolulu in January, which clearly underscored their genuine interest in the mission of the Polynesian Voyaging Society, Hokule'a and its many volunteers. As the tour was winding down the discussion turned to the tragedy of the Ehime Maru which sank off the coast of Oahu and 2001 after being struck by a US Navy submarine and took the lives of seven men, most of them maritime high school students on a training voyage from this small city of Uwajima.

Hokule'a and its ohana reached out to the families of the survivors of this accident when they came to Hawaii shortly after the vessel's sinking and took them to the site so that they could conduct a memorial service for their sons. While our government failed to respond appropriately with compassion and respect to these families, the Hawaiian community and especially the Hokulea Ohana reached out with aloha and helped ease the intense grief being experienced by these families so far away from their homes. During the subsequent years the bond between Hokulea and these families has grown stronger due to the yearly family visits to the memorial constructed here in Honolulu to honor these lost seamen.

Yuka appeared to know quite a bit about this unfortunate incident and acknowledged the tremendous symbol of healing and compassion that the Hokulea was bringing to the entire community as well as the fulfillment of a promise made two years ago to sail Hokulea to Uwajima and return the spirits of those lost in Hawaiian waters. I sensed that there might be a deeper connection to that incident that she was not sharing with me at that time. The tour complete I walked away feeling that I had been a facilitator in a spiritual connection between Yuka and Hokule'a and there was a significance to this meeting that I had not yet comprehended.

Later that evening as I left Nainoa's presentation and Jake Shimabukuro's concert, I saw Yuka and Keiko in the lobby and she thanked me again for taking the time to bring her on board Hokule'a and she gave me a note with her phone number and hoped that we would meet again. I called Yuka the following day because I felt that there was something left unresolved during our discussion on board the canoe and we agreed to meet later that evening if I could find my way to the city of Yawatayama. I took the train and was met by Yuka and three of her friends one of whom was an American guy from Wisconsin (Aaron Madalon-Key) teaching English in Japan and the interpreter for the evening. After a great dinner and much conversation about the Hokulea and the voyage of 2007 it was time to return to Uwajima. Due to the late hour (midnight) and the amount of sake consumed (moderate) I chose to stay at a small hotel and take the train back to Uwajima in the morning.

Yuka and her friends arranged for the hotel and asked if I would delay my return the next day until they had an opportunity to show me their village of Ikata, a small picturesque community of 10,000. I agreed and was picked up by Yuka early the next morning and we visited the beautiful countryside and harbor area of Ikata. The dock area was lined with small fishing boats that worked the waters close inshore and also sailed alone west to Korea in search of fish. Her family consisted of five generations of fisherman from this village including her father, uncle and cousin.

Following the harbor tour Yuka pointed to a small community near the top of the steep hillside that boarded the harbor and invited me to meet her family. We drove the very narrow and winding trail to the top of the hillside to a beautiful overlook and then on to her village. After parking we walked through a maze of narrow passageways that ultimately led to her family home. At this time I could not help thinking about the remote and vulnerable situation I found myself in; very little cash, no passport, no luggage, no language skills and a minimum of a 10 mile walk to any type of transportation back to Uwajima (This will be a true test of my Irish charm)

I was graciously greeted by Yuka's mom (Kimiko) and dad (Hirofumi ) along with an uncle and aunt and although we could not communicate well I could sense that my presence there was an important event. Yuka told me that I was the first foreigner that they had ever met and to have me in their home was indeed a special occasion. We all sat on the floor with Yuka acting as interpreter and the discussion immediately turned to the Hokulea, its voyage and the significance of its visit to Uwajima. They had hoped that the canoe could have come to their village and it was at this point I began to realize that there was an important connection between Hokulea's mission to Japan and this family.

Yuka's aunt, Minako Inoue came and knelt before me and began to sob and speak to me in Japanese and after several moments I reached down to comfort her until she regained her composure. I learned that she had lost her only son at sea last October, 2006. Kouichiro had graduated from Uwajima High School 30 years ago and had also sailed to Hawaii on the Ehime Maru (His remains were finally recovered this past March).

Hokulea's mission to return the souls of the young men lost in 2001 also represented an opportunity of hope for Minako to also experience closure to her own sense of loss 5 months ago. However, she was not able to visit Hokule'a in person and had hoped that Yuka would be able to forge this important link by visiting the canoe. I believe that the presence of someone directly connected to the Hokule'a in her home and carrying the powerful message of healing and hope that Hokule'a brings with it on every voyage, was a divine appointment and it was now time for me to have an acute case of chicken skin.

I left Ikata and Yawatayama feeling emotionally drained and also humbled by the events during the past two days. As a Christian I believe that God provides opportunities for us to share the many gifts and talents that we are blessed with among those in need. These opportunities may often appear insignificant but can have a profound impact upon people in need far beyond our understanding.

Now as I witness the steady procession of visitors watching and listening to the Hokule'a crew speak about the canoe and its mission, I realize how important these events are in building the bridges that can one day unite all people of this ocean. I am especially thankful to Yuka and her family for letting me be a conduit for healing and fellowship in their lives and to the Hokule'a Ohana for the opportunity to be a part of this incredible voyage.

Awesome story Bruddah Mike. Aloha and Mahalo for sharing this with us all.

Da Iwakuni Ohana all send our Love & Aloha

Sean G. Kim Han

Mahalo Mike for sharing this awesome event.

You all have been excellent ambassadors of Hawaii's Aloha. PVS and her missions continue to bring the world cultures together.

I hope we can welcome you all home in the grand manner deserving of you feats.

I agree with Mr. Cunningham’s notion that the canoe has strong and strange power in it, and many people need to touch it. But unfortunately, the number of the people who can see, touch and board Hokule’a is strictly limited at Yokohama because of under-manning and short of time. In fact, the total number of the person who can access the canoe at Yokohama is only 400. In contrast, 250 people could board the canoe at Suo-Oshima in 3hours or 1400 people could board the canoe at Hiroshima in 2 days.

I don’t want to blame the crewmembers and Yokohama city. There were enough crewmembers and facility in Suo-Oshima and Hiroshima to do that. But I adjure Mr. Thompson and the people of PVS that if the Japanese who loves Hokule’a will go Hawai’i and ask you to see, touch or board the canoe, please let them do that as long as you can. There are many many people who gave up boarding Hokule’a in front of the gate of the dock. They went to the dock by train ridden 1, 2 or 2 hours. Someone had vacated his job but couldn’t board the canoe.

To: Sir "Irish" Mike Cunningham, "Well Done Good and Faithfull Servant"...yes! trully indeed Mahalo Plenty for your "dolphin-skin" witness and testimony- Absolutely, your "friendly exchange from the "Heart" and the "spirit" led "kokua" that was "mysteriously" provided with "Closure" for Yuka-Sama and her Ohana was indeed "Awesome". As you "do" proclaim to be a "Lover of Christ"( Christain)- To God Be All the Glory. Mahalo for sharing your warm-kind-hearted "ALOHA" me ke aloha saito iruka (aka jais') P.S. Mike, are you relation to Grande Master Lifegaurd/Champion Bodysurfer Mark Cunningham? "Heh! Bruddah come Molokai and charge your Batteries?" aloha jmc.

Aloha Mike,

Mahalo nui for sharing your experience and emotions. You are a wonderful, caring, and understanding individual. We could not have asked for a better person to support us at sea. Mahalo nui for being there for us the crew when we could not. Yes, we all understand and feel the emotions and thoughts of this so important event and moment. We have felt so much and learned so much during our short stay in Japan. It has certainly strengthened my own thoughts that the peoples of the Pacific are the greatest people on earth. This is quite a forward thing to say, but your exprience only illuminates the connections that Pacific islanders can make on a higher level than our western and european societies can comprehend. You, Mike have just become immersed in the this culture, lifestyle, and mindset. Ke aloha to you, and I will sail anytime you do.

Malama Pono
Dennis

aloha mike...good story....good ending....good sail

i enjoyed cooking for that short sail we did....aloha
mel

A response to Mr. Kato Kosei. It has never been the intention of the crew, PVS, or Nainoa or anyone to block access to Hokule'a. We have always made it our purpose to offer the opportunity to anyone whenever possible. The driving force is of course safety to all concerned. During this trip, our primary handicap has been our inability to communicate in Japanese. We have relied upon english speaking Japanese volunteers to assist us in having visitors onboard Hokule'a. This has not been an easy task for these volunteer translators. It has meant long hours of speaking and a few of them even lost their voices, but continued anyway because they felt so strongly about what they were doing. We are forever indebted to these people (I won't mention names because I know I will forget someone, but they know who they are and that they are part of the 'ohana). Thus, if you felt that access was limited, then your assistance in this matter would have been greatly appreciated. We try to be as proactive as possible, rather than talk about what can done. In Hawai'i, "If can,..can... If no can, ....then no can" Just a thought about making things happen, rather than namunamu about what neva happen.

me ke aloha

Thank you Mr. Dennis. I will translate your response and let Japanese people read that. There are some English speaking Japanese who offered a volunteer on the canoe to Yokohama city and the city officials faithfully sought good solutions. But unfortunately their attempt was failed for some reasons.

Mahalo

TO Saito Iruka (JMC),
Mahaloa for the kind words and when I come Molokai I will definately find you and Brudda Mel ( he's one awesome cook).

No relation to Mark Cunningham but one day I hope Mark calls me and says that someone finally ask him if he's related to that famous sailor from Hokulea! Until then I am comfortable living in his shadow.

Irish Mike

Access to Hokule'a is limited? No, not at all. This blog,
for example, forwarded messages from Hokue'a's crews,
and the "participants" of many nations. Dennis, and your
ohana, you all did great job!

There have been many chicken-skin moments for me during
the canoe's voyage, and this one is one great one of them.
Truly that was by divine calling that Mike met Yuka and her family. I do remember the Ehimemaru tragedy, and would like
to offer sincere prayer for Yuka's auntie.

Safe voyage home, all of you, the crews of Hokule'a and Kama Hele, and the Japanese people who traveled far to
observe the vessels.

Mike ~

Thanks for sharing this story, I enjoyed reading it. Just goes to show that true communication is less about words and more about the heart. Look me up when you make it back to Okinawa. cheers!

- chris
(part of the crew that helped the Hokule'a in Okianwa)

p.s. - you should read "Musashi" by Yoshikawa (translated by Charles Terry). I really think you would enjoy it after your time in Japan. A copy got sent with you guys from Okinawa; last I heard Uncle Maka had it.

Chris,

Mahalo for the note and your help in Okinawa.

I will find a copy of Musashi- Thanks for the lead.

Your right,words and languages are one means

of communicating, but random acts of kindness can

often have a more profound impact on our ability

to forge meaningful relationships with those of

different cultures and language.

During this incredible voyage there have been

more friendships created by a smile, friendly

gesture or small gift than by our words


Irish Mike

Spoken like a Hawaiian Scholar, Dennis!!!

"We try to be as proactive as possible, rather than talk about what can [be] done. In Hawai'i, "If can,..can... If no can, ....then no can" Just a thought about making things happen, rather than namunamu about what neva happen."

That deserves to be on a wall somewhere---MAHALO!

Whoʻs your Kumu?Youʻve made them proud!Another Star Graduate of Hokulea!!!

I mua Kakou. Malama Pono.
Toni Auld Yardley

To Sir "Irish" Mike, Saito Iruka here again-ok. Again, we very much are in "holy-spirit" ledAgreement with the most "Dol"fun" skin experience you have had with your "new" adopted Ohana from {Ehime-Uwajima (Yawatayama-"Ikata")} Yes! Awesome "win-win" Closure for Yuka-san's auntie Inoue Minako-Sama-"Absolutely the "given" experiences are filled with His Grace and Power= "indeed to God Be All the Glory"... Welcome Cunningham-san, e komo mai; ai mai kau kau-Aloha e no Ka Kou... "gomen nasai"- Once again excuse, please this simple "BeachBoy/Sailing-Man", my passion is to simply "share" and "care" our "home-sweet-home", the Friendly-Family Isle of Molokai- when you come to visit (stay a while) and experience again "broke you' mouth" Ono-delicious tasty-treats of Uncle Mel's "molokai-style-cooking"; and we can go sail, surf, dive, and if you come before the 2nd week in September Capt. Naki (Molokai Action Adventures) says we will go behind "Backside" to "God's-Country", Walter says: "be prepared to be "mesmerized"... On the lead in to the week of July 31st-( the Queen of Makaha/ Rell "KapolioKaEhukai" Sunn's birthday) and then on "August 1st" (we will be showing the "special" movie "The Heart of the Sea" at our Public Library), this will be the 5th year that we have had our "grass-roots" Celebration of Life in auntie Rell's memory- Please come and enjoy the "Surfalicious" Days and Nights with our na Ohana... Mahalo for you compassionate spirit and your "awesome" Heart full of "Aloha" Me Ke Aloha Pumehana Shin'ici "Iruka" Saito (aka jais' m car'ee) God-Speed for you and yours!!!

To: "Friendly" awesome co-ordinator and Master "linguistics ambassador" Kato Kosei-Sama, Please make a time in your most busy schedule and "Come to Our "Sweet-Lovely" island of Molokai", and "Charge-Your-Batteries"- Capt. Walter Naki c/o Molokai Action Adventures says to tell you that "Job Well Done" with you "make-a-difference" guidance and warmest of "hosting" the "star of gladness" in your islands and peoples of Japan"- He says: "Come and relax, Enjoy and Let us : "Mesmerize" you in "GOD"S-COUNTRY"! aloha jais'suin'n m. car'ee/Shin'ichi "Iruka" Saito... God-Speed.

To Saito Iruka,

Mahalo once again for your sincere and generous offer to include me in the upcoming celebrations on Molokai.

With uncle Mel's cooking and Cap'n Naki's offer to show me the hidden beauty of your Island and your gratiousness,I must plan to visit with you all in Aug/Sept.

Many years ago I hiked back into Halawa Valley and have sailed many times to Hale Alono and Kaunakakai but am one malahini when it comes to the "Hidden Beauty " of your "Friendly Isle"

Please keep me posted on the events planned and I will look forward to coming to "God's Country " soon.

Irish Mike