Wednesday, April 3

Conservation Day in the Rock Islands

Palau – Today the focus was on marine conservation in the Rock Islands of Palau. Days don’t get much better than this. Na‘alehu put on his videographer’s hat and took off at the break of dawn with “key grip” Eric Co and staff of the Palau Conservation Society to shoot some B-roll (raw footage) of the Rock Islands in the gentle light daybreak. The rest of the crews of both Hokule‘a and Alingano Maisu assembled on the dock near our apartment by 8:30 am to begin a day planned for many weeks, if not months, by our hosts at the Palau Conservation Society, the Koror State Department of Conservation, and Sam’s Tours. Tiare Holm, Executive Director of the Palau Conservation Society and Scotty Keifer, the Society’s education and outreach officer, and Adalbert Eledui, Director of Conservation and Enforcement of the Koror State Government led the field trip in the Ngemelis complex area of the Rock Islands that included stops at “Big Drop Off” and the famous and magical Jellyfish Lake.

We snorkeled along an 800’ wall rich with hundreds of species of soft and hard corals, invertebrates, and schools of fish large and small. We saw a couple of endangered Hawksbill turtles as well as black-tip reef sharks. At Jellyfish lake, there may have been 17 million stingless jellyfish, give or take a few, floating all around us. For most of us, this was our first time in this type of ecosystem, which left us without adequate words to express an out of world experience.

To minimize our environmental impact to the sites at any one time, we split into two groups. And to maximize our appreciation for what the Koror State government is doing to promote conservation and sustainable use of the resources, we gladly paid the $15 permit individually to allow for visitor use of the Rock Islands (valid for two weeks). The funds generated from this simple permit system totals to more than $1.5 million annually, which is used to pay for the 16 conservation officers who patrol the area 24 hours a day, 7 days a week; road and harbor improvements, and litter clean up. In the Rock Islands, tourists are permitted in only seven areas, and commercial fishing is not permitted. Community-based fishing for non-commercial purposes is allowed but certain techniques such as spearing using any kind of underwater breathing apparatus (e.g. SCUBA) are prohibited.

Restrictions are much more stringent than we are used to in Hawai‘i, yet there is not a feeling of loss or unfairness. The Palau Conservation Society and Koror State Government worked closely with local communities in the state for more than two years to identify values that community members want to perpetuate for future generations. They want a healthy marine environment that produces food for the table and a stable economy. Funds raised from the permit system pay for practically everything, which benefits business and community as well as the environment. As Adalbert Eledui, lead architect of the Rock Islands management plan told us, “a large Napoleon wrasse may be worth $100 in the market, but is worth a hundred times that left in the water.”

There is so much more to say about our “conservation” day . . . but this will have to wait for another moment when we have more time to reflect.

(by Pauline Sato)


Friday, April 6, 2007

Palau - The canoes are ready on the Neco Marine dock where they have been at home since arriving on April 1. As our gracious hosts for the past week, the organizing committee once again put together a memorable ceremonyn for our farewell, providing breakfast for all who came down to see the canoes back to Yap. We were inspired by remarks by High Chief Reklai Ngirmang, Koror State Governor Yoshitaka Adachi, crew member Jennifer Yano, Alingano Maisu Captain Sesario Sewralur (Mau Piailug’s son), and Hokule‘a Captain Na‘alehu Anthony. The captains promised to continue the relationship between Hawai‘i and Micronesia and perpetuate their rich navigation and voyaging traditions through the school of navigation. Mechesil Belau women presented a traditional food basket for the voyage to Yap, filled with cooked taro, sweet tapioca rolls, smoked fish, cans of tuna and corned beef.

Last evening, the crew gave a tour of the Hokule‘a to Palau Canoe Association members and Palau Conservation Society Staff that went on into the night with exchange of gifts, and tears and farewells.

The canoes were escorted out of Malakal Harbor by the traditional Palau war canoes from four different states. Painted with the colors of their village, each canoe sat from 12-16 men in traditional malo, sitting two abreast on cross pieces level with the gunnels, with one foot outside the canoe in a looped rope near the water. The paddle blades were long and pointed at the end. The canoes had an outrigger with a platform, where a team member led the crew in paddling and chant. A special chant for Hokule‘a still rings clear to all of us who were honored by this very special practice of custom and tradition. Uncle Maka responded with the blowing of the pu as we headed for open ocean.

(by Emily Fielding)


Sunday, April 8, 2007

Yap - The crews of Hokule‘a and Alingano Maisu arrived in Yap, Easter Sunday, to a quiet Colonia Harbor. A few old friends from Yap and Satawal were there to greet the canoes, as were crew members re-joining the voyage, Chadd Paishon, Pomai Bertelmann, Timmy Gilliom, and Nainoa Thompson – with a gallon of ice cream and cans of root beer on ice for a well deserved dockside root beer float. Immigration came down to check the passports and customs to quarantine any fresh fruits and vegetables. The crew scrubbed the decks, canvases, and each of the 10 sleeping holds, and off loaded their personal gear packed in dry bags and coolers, and scrubbed and pumped out each area in preparation for the new crew coming on for the sail to Okinawa. Sunset over the glassy green waters of the harbor, flanked on the two points by traditional men’s meeting houses, and now defunct corrugated fish packing warehouses. The crew enjoyed dinner together, sharing stories of the days past and adventures yet to come – celebrating the arrival of the Hokule‘a to Yap under the leadership of Captain Na‘alehu Anthony and Ka‘iulani Murphy.

(by Emily Fielding)

Lee Taylor--we are down in your home territory of Mississippi. We remember with great pleasure our dinner together at the warehouse on the Big Island. All the best to all of you. Sail on and much aloha. Ron & Ginny in Michigan

Hey all,
Thinking of you all every evening, and know the ancestors are travelling w you, once again.
Fun to log on and find new msg. to share in your experience's.
Send you prayer's for safety each day, and best fishes!
Adventure sounds awesome, keep up the awesome sharing of the lessons' of microcosm canoe life
Hay ce:p qa (Thank you all)
Ah Hui Ho malama pono
Kim

Aloha Pauline - what an awesome experience, can't wait to see the pictures/videos. We are still trying to establish our paddling club in Yokosuka. We have three canoes that need to be shipped from Hawaii and we hope to find a way in time to meet the Hokule`a in Yokohama.

To the crew - mahalo nui, malama!

A hui hou,
Val